Vintage swimwear history offers a fantastic glimpse at the monumental evolution of fashion throughout the decades. Today, swimwear is synonymous with the tiniest bikinis, speedos and one-piece swimsuits that seamlessly take you from the beach bar to the shoreline. Yet,  women’s swimwear has not always revealed so much of the female form. 

Vintage swimwear history: the 411

The history of swimwear can be traced back to the 4th century, to Roman times. Ancient mosaics reveal Roman women enjoying the water in two-piece swimsuits that look remarkably like the modern bikini, despite the bikini finding its place in our beach bags in the 1940s. With the fall of the Roman Empire, society’s views on water-based activities shifted, viewing the sea as a source of disease. Bathing dresses became popular attire for attending bathhouses, despite men and women previously bathing in the nude. In Britain, the 1700s saw the return of swimming in the sea for the upper classes who named the sea’s healing qualities and health benefits as their motive for bathing. Yet, there was little to differentiate the typical bathing suit from everyday attire. The end of the Victorian era saw the rise of seaside resorts such as Blackpool yet women’s swimwear didn’t see significant changes until the end of the 1800s with the arrival of a sportier, more figure-hugging, one-piece swimsuit. 

Annette Kellerman: The Australian Mermaid

Australian-born Annette Kellerman was famed for her attempts to swim the English Channel and in doing so, she single-handedly fast-forwarded vintage swimwear history into the modern age. Of course, a traditional bathing suit with its cumbersome, heavy-weight fabric wouldn’t be compatible with the strong, fierce currents of the ocean so a new, lightweight, streamlined design was fashioned. This caused a scandal at the time. “I can’t swim wearing more stuff than you hang on a clothesline” became a famous phrase of Kellerman’s, who was later arrested for public indecency in 1907. Thanks to Kellerman, vintage swimwear history would never be the same again. 

Indecent exposure and the Swimsuit Police

The war years of the twentieth century brought about drastic change for the fashion industry giving way to varying swimwear styles across the globe. While social attitudes remained on the prudish side, designers across the globe were eager to show off the female form in all its glory. Yet this was met with some resistance, especially on American beaches which had to employ the Swimsuit Police to monitor public indecency due to too much bare skin on show.  By the Second World War, the swimwear industry was radically changing. Influenced by the enforced rationing, sleeves were shorter, hemlines higher and midriffs were on full show. Something unheard of in previous decades. Pin-up girls and Hollywood movies made the two-piece swimsuit a fashion staple and 1946 marked the birth of the bikini. 

The arrival of swimwear designers and the rise of the film industry

Long gone were the days of Jantzen Knitting Mills and knitted female swimwear. Designers across the globe rushed to make their name by creating the smallest bikini. Parisian fashion designer Jacques Heim came first with “the world’s smallest bathing suit” only to be robbed of the title two weeks later by designer Louis Réard who launched a design named Bikini Atoll which was “smaller than the smallest swimsuit”. Actresses like Brigitte Bardot and Marilyn Monroe popularised the bikini through their appearances on the silver screen and in the 1950s Vogue Magazine claimed swimwear as being a “state of dress, not undress”. With the world leaving the war era behind, new colours, fabrics and styles were being used to create even more eye-catching designs highlighting a new era in vintage swimwear history.

5 Vintage swimwear looks to update your summer style

From Joan Crawford to Bette Davis, retro swimwear is tinged with timeless Holywood glamour and influenced by iconic fashion trends. Thinking of adding a piece of fashion history to your wardrobe? These timeless vintage swimsuits will never go out of style. What’s more, you can wear one of these designer swimsuits, say in lieu of a bodysuit or bra top when spending the day under the summer sun. 

Kittiwake 1960s crimplene bikini

The structured silhouettes and tropical themes of the 1950s crept into the 60s defining the era with high-waist briefs and supportive bras. 60s suburbia was brightened up with bold colours often clashing together in geometric prints. Yet it was the debut of the Elvis Presley and Joan Blackman movie Blue Hawaii that ensured that sharp lines, diamonds and triangles became the must-have prints of the decade. This bikini’s bold brown, white and red retro stripe print is a subtle nod to this trend and the crimplene, double-knit fabric is a hallmark of 60s fashion. The bikini top is designed with a deep V neckline, accentuated by a vibrant coral trim adding a pop of colour to the look. What’s more, the high-waisted bikini bottoms, a typical 1960s silhouette, elegantly highlight the beauty of the female form providing a flattering poolside look for all ages. 

Kenzo, 1970s striped acrylic and wool halter-neck playsuit

Despite the rise of the micro-bikini, one-pieces were still popular during the 1970s. London’s fashion scene was revolutionised with the arrival of the hair salon and concept store, Joseph which championed the work of upcoming designers such as the Japanese designer Kenzo Takada. This navy and white, striped Kenzo design features a typical 1970s asymmetrical halter neck that delicately frames the female form. The acrylic, wool blend makes this an extremely figure-hugging design yet once wet, it loosely hugs the body’s curves in all the right places, leaving little for the imagination.

Vintage Emilio Pucci swimsuit

Featuring Emilio Pucci’s signature abstract prints in delicate shades of blue, white and navy, this retro swimsuit exudes timeless Hollywood glamour. Thought to date from the late 70s-early 80s, the flattering silhouette offers a sensual, stylish and refined look that can easily be paired with a Pucci print sarong or a classic plain white linen shirt. Synonymous with summers spent sunning oneself on the Amalfi Coast, this iconic design marks a key point in vintage swimwear history. 

1980s Gottex swimsuit, made in Isreal

Gone are the earth tones of the 70s, the 80s is all about statement swimsuits in strong colours. This one-piece bathing suit with a matching cover-up features a vivid striped pattern with bold diagonal lines in shades of blue, orange, yellow and black which perfectly exudes retro 80s charm. Yet, unlike the silhouettes of the time, this swimsuit echoes designs found earlier in vintage swimwear history with a silhouette akin to the iconic white swimsuit worn by Marilyn Monroe on the beach in 1956. Let these colours pop poolside for a stylish summer look that still feels as fresh and as fun as it did back in the day.

Bring the disco to the beach with this 80s swimsuit

There is nothing low-key about this postmodern, sporty swimsuit. The 80s were a decade of fashion freedom and rebellion as shown here in the playful splashes of fluorescent neon detailing and skyscraper high-leg silhouettes. The 1989 premiere of Baywatch propelled one-pieces to the forefront of fashion in mainstream media, turning the beach into a catwalk and swimsuit designers took note. This popular style with its solid colours won’t look out of place on Miami Beach thanks to the retro style and sleek, body-hugging design.