Inside Tenerife Moda: Designers, catwalks and sustainability
Tenerife Moda took place the 6th-9th of June, yet things looked a little different this year. While it maintained its prestigious location in Santa Cruz’s Recinto Ferial, exciting changes made the event a reference point not only in fashion but also in the world of beauty. At the heart of the showcase was the Hairdressing and Beauty Fair, a new addition that paid homage to the late Frank Peluquero, one of the biggest names in Canarian hairdressing.
An exhibition of Tenerife Moda designers
Guests who weren’t inside La Caja Negra, the Black Square watching the catwalk shows were free to browse the exhibition which had been curated by Tenerife Moda and directed by Natanael Padrón, with the support of Efrain Medina, Councillor for Employment, Education and Youth of the Island Council. The exhibition featured stands promoting fresh island talents such as Angie Vasquez (Lanzarote), Gallo Buey (Tenerife) and Farobag (Tenerife) to name just a few. Similarly, the Urban Zone fused the world of tattoos, urban fashion and lifestyle with brands like Viperinas showcasing their bold and creative designs alongside household names such as Levis, Timberland and Vans. Since it is a turbulent time for Canarian designers, the multifaceted approach of Tenerife Moda proves, yet again, that fashion doesn’t exist in a vacuum.
Tenerife Moda Catwalk: Young Designers
Thursday saw the thirteenth celebration of the Tenerife Moda Young Designers Contest, presented by journalist Yaiza Díaz. This showcase marked the start of the 4-day long event and awarded three promising young designers with a cash prize for their designs. David Moss (Guadalajara, Mexico) won first prize with his collection ‘Blossom’, a Marie Antoinette meets Harajuku collection of pastel tones. Diego Barroso (La Gomera) came second with his collection ‘Glorius’, a gender-fluid kitsch expression of the creativity and individuality of fashion, all topped off with a Baroque twist. In third place, Alejandro Niño (Colombia) won the prize for the most commercial collection with his collection ‘Coffee’, inspired by the popular drink and symbol of Colombia. His collection showcases the millions of stories that are told over a mug of coffee through masculine tailoring, embroidery and illustration. Other finalists to showcase their collections included Ama Studio, Nanna, Elysea Studio and Leonardo Mena alongside special guest It Spain.
David Moss receiving his prize at the Young Designers Contest
Friday, Islas de Moda, sustainability, Marco & María and Flamenco fashion
Friday marked the first full day for Tenerife Moda designers many of which showcasing existing collections previously shown on international catwalks earlier this year. The day began with a show celebrating circular and sustainable fashion, a nod to the Tenerife Sustainable Fashion Week, held earlier this year. Nathalie Leturcq (Tenerife) showcased a collection entitled ‘Caprichos de colour’, which transported viewers to verdant green hillsides of Tenerife’s wine-making region with its feminine, free-flowing silhouettes, natural fibres and use of natural dyes. Amanita, led by Carolina Hernández presented ‘Lux’, a collection that placed the kimono centre stage, highlighting its unisex aesthetic in a vibrant, versatile, and elegant array of textures and colours, embodying a fusion of avant-garde and classic styles inspired by the magic of life.
Islas de Moda
The Islas de Moda show, a celebration of Canarian talent, ushered crowds into the Caja Negra, all eager to see what opulent designs awaited them.
Diazar Atelier (La Palma) treated spectators to an elegant proposal named ‘Ámitys’, which was inspired by Amytis of Media, wife of King Nebuchadnezzar II and founder of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. With a name like this, it was clear that the designs would be hyper-feminine, fluid and ever so empowering.
Oswaldo Marchín (Lanzarote) bewitched the audience with openwork, rosettes, 3D fabrics, corsetry and lingerie style looks cut on the bias combined to create the ‘Heritage’ collection, a bridal collection of feminine, classic looks that was previously shown in Madrid. Satin, silks, 3D organza, tulle and chantilly lace are just some of the fabrics used alongside recycled glass and plastic embellishments to create the signature sensual flair the brand is known for.
Lucas Balboa (Gran Canaria), a member of Gran Canaria Moda Cálida, wowed spectators with his collection ‘Delphos’. A kaleidoscope of pomegranate, emerald, coral, lavender, teal and midnight blue, this collection clearly defines the Lucas Balboa classic, refined style with its carefully structured silhouettes designed to fit the modern man while maintaining the essence of heritage tailoring.
Pedro Palmas was the last designer to showcase at the Islas de Moda fashion show. His innovative bridal line, ‘Neige’ combined a fascination of the silence of nature and the eternal purity of snow. Elegantly crafted silhouettes dusted with strass crystal ‘snowflakes’ offer a breath of fresh air, a collection that had proven popular at Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week.
Marco & María, bridal fashion with a touch of fairytale magic
The long-awaited presentation of ‘Los Paraísos Perdidos’ (The Lost Paradises), was previously shown at Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week, where the brand was nominated for the best bridal collection by the world's leading bridal fashion show along with two other renowned brands. Yet in Tenerife, it was met with an enchanted audience bewitched by the elegance and glamour of the dreamy bridal designs. The Spanish designer duo’s collection contrasted the bourgeois and the rebellious with floral motifs sprouting between folds of tulle, romantic yet sexy silhouettes and lingerie elements such as busters and transparent fabrics maintaining the brand’s iconic style.
Flamenco fashion that makes you say Olé!
Friday’s frantic fashion events were brought to a close with an exquisite catwalk of flamenco fashion designers. Crowds of adoring fans dressed in their flamenco attire filed into the Caja Negra, eager to feel the Duende of the showcase. José Juan Hurtado, the winner of the latest SIMOF Young Designers Competition, presented his collection "Jurdeles," inspired by the historic trading practices of gitanas. Meanwhile, José Galvañ presented "Farah," a fusion of traditional flamenco attire and contemporary design, emphasising joy and classic forms with innovative volumes and two-piece ensembles.
Saturday: International fashion, pret a porter and occasion wear
Saturday was a big day for the Tenerife Moda designers with a full schedule of events taking place inside the prestigious Caja Negra.
International trends
Senegalese designer Rama Diaw delighted onlookers with her vibrant collection, ‘Nómada,’ inspired by the landscapes of her hometown, Saint Louis. She took traditional Mauritanian fabric and transformed it into elegant, fluid garments. Lucía de Su from Tenerife debuted ‘Jadi’ blending Andalusian and African influences in sophisticated, colourful pieces, featuring natural silks and intricate details like feathers and crystals. Closing the event, Wastara, the brand of Indonesian designer Dode Moneko, presented ‘Bali Nusa,’ combining traditional Indonesian elements with contemporary European styles, featuring eco-friendly materials in neutral colourways and bold prints. The collection experimented with maxi skirts, cropped jackets, sarongs and long shirts.
Pret a Porter
Following a glamorous evening wear show, which we will deconstruct in a minute, Viperinas (Tenerife) presented their vibrant collection ‘Karaoke Dragon,’ blending the cultural richness of Japan with the energy of Tokyo's nightlife and featuring designs inspired by the mystical power of the dragon. The Pret-a-porter show also showcased the work of Portuguese brand VOID and their unisex collection ‘Sótão da avó,’ inspired by 1950s love letters found in the designer's grandmother's attic. This collection combined sentimental elements with modern Hi-Tech fabrics and Madeira embroidery. Closing the show, Paloma Suárez (La Palma) presented her collection ‘Brave’ which she has previously presented in Madrid to much success. This collection is characterised by innovative structures and a commitment to sustainable textiles, integrating vegan leather and a mix of textures, highlighted by houndstooth print, sequins and tailored fabrics.
Evening and occasion wear
The magic of Tenerife Moda is brought to life in the lavish occasion wear shows where flowing fabrics, sparkling embellishment and tailored looks are a mark of sophistication and timeless elegance. Saturday saw three evening wear catwalks, each boasting a wealth of design talent within the evening wear category.
The first catwalk show opened to the sound of the famous Colombian telenovela with JaviLar Woman (Tenerife) proudly exhibiting ‘Vibrant Royale’ a collection full of opulence, watercolour hand-painted prints of endangered flora and fauna and felted accessories. Mado Vigarok (Tenerife) followed with their Km0 collection ‘Harmonie’, fresh from Paris Fashion Week, which fused elegance and modernity with a commitment to sustainability and social inclusion. La Trajería (Tenerife) also showcased its environmental credentials in its sustainable menswear collection which shone a spotlight on recycled fabrics and classic tailoring with a modern twist. The spellbinding event was drawn to a close by Inmaculada Rodrígues (Tenerife) who presented ‘Badana’, a bridal collection inspired by banana plantations, incorporating meticulous pleats and a rich palette reflecting the natural beauty of Tenerife.
The Caja Negra was transformed, once again, into a glamorous world of haute couture with the second occasion wear show of the day. By Loleiro (Tenerife) celebrated natural beauty with their SS24 collection ‘Lysianthus’, transforming the runway into a blossoming garden of intricate, floral-inspired millinery and exquisite couture accessories. Amarca (Tenerife) continued the romantic appeal with their mesmerising bridal collection, ‘Victory’ which featured delicate pleats and exquisite beadwork highlighting the empowered feminine form. Of course, occasion wear encompasses the elegance of fine tailoring and José Acosta’s (Tenerife) collection ‘El Viaje’ didn’t disappoint. A poetic and evocative homage to the Hero's Journey, this collection of 16 made-to-measure designs wowed the audience with its creative, sharp tailoring and reversible jackets. Baro Lucas captivated with his Autumn/Winter 2024 collection, showcasing dynamic silhouettes, luxurious fabrics, and a sustainable ethos, creating a fusion of future-inspired elegance and traditional craftsmanship that left a lasting impression.
As the light of the day faded, the Caja Negra continued to shine with design talent from Tenerife Moda designers. The catwalk was transformed into a realm of monochromatic elegance as Rodrigo Piñeiro (Tenerife) presented his SS24 collection "Black & White," paying homage to the strong, futuristic woman. Structured silhouettes and voluminous forms highlighted feminine allure amidst a backdrop of masculine codes. Meanwhile, Sedomir Rodríguez de la Sierra’s (Tenerife) return to the runway dazzled with ‘Edén’, a high fashion ode to paradise, boasting a kaleidoscope of hues and shimmering fabrics. Finally, the international sensation Koii, helmed by Eduardo and Enzo Koii (Venezuela), made its Tenerife debut with ‘Perlas del Caribe’ a breathtaking fusion of architectural design and opulent detailing, captivating the audience with each hyper feminine silhouette and innovative use of material.
Sunday: Accessories, accessories and more accessories
The fourth and final day of the fair was dedicated to Tenerife Moda designers who specialise in producing accessories and jewellery. The Caja Negra transformed into a kaleidoscope of artisanal brilliance as NOK,(Tenerife) a stalwart of Tenerife Moda, presented its summer collection. Incorporating rich and alluring materials such as bronze, brass, and a medley of gems, each piece exuded both confidence and elegance, a testament to the brand's decade-long commitment to redefining accessories. Meanwhile, Roselinde (Tenerife) transported us to the chic enclaves of Marbella with its 'Marbella' collection, a fusion of hippy chic and 90s jet-set glamour. From sleek gold-accented designs to vibrant sea-inspired motifs, Roselinde celebrated the vibrancy of summer with a versatile range of statement pieces. Lastly, Hammerhoj Design (Tenerife) captivated the audience with its Lanzarote-inspired collection, a testament to the island's contrasting beauty. From tranquil pastels echoing daytime serenity to vibrant hues mirroring the island's lively nights, each handcrafted bag and espadrille encapsulated the essence of Lanzarote's landscapes and vibrant culture.
A successful showcase of Tenerife Moda Designers
Fashion weeks are a key moment to celebrate the diversity, creativity and innovation of Canarian fashion, placing it not only at the forefront of local conversation but also on an international stage. As one of the island’s largest grossing industries, it is important to create a dialogue between designers and politicians as well as present young talent with a platform to promote their brand. But, of course, it is not without its challenges. As the buzz of Tenerife Moda dies down, it will be interesting to see the public reception of these collections and where these designers will take their creative visions next. Can they continue to redefine the fashion landscape? Or, will they pivot towards more conventional styles? Only time will tell. Yet, one thing is certain, Canarian designers should be on everyone’s fashion radar.